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IndyVet offers free eye exams to service dogs

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Owners and handlers of active working animals can register for free eye exams at IndyVet Emergency & Specialty Hospital, on Indy’s southeast side, from April 1-30 as part of the American College of Veterinary Ophthalmologists (ACVO) 7th annual National Service Animal Eye Exam event taking place during the month of May.

Dr. Heidi Klein, DVM, DACVO, IndyVet’s chief ophthalmologist, will join more than 250 board-certified veterinary ophthalmologists throughout the U.S., Canada and Puerto Rico in donating their time and resources to provide complimentary eye exam screenings to thousands of eligible service animals.

Since 2008, ACVO has screened more than 22,700 service animals to help detect signs of disease. “These warning signs aren’t always obvious,” Dr. Klein said. “Without regular check-ups, something serious can progress to a more advanced state without the owner’s knowledge, which then poses the risk for permanent damage or blindness.”

Dogs eligible for sight-saving screenings include the following: guide, handicapped assistance, detection, military, search and rescue, and registered therapy canines.

To qualify, animals must be certified by a formal training program or organization, or currently enrolled in a formal training program, which can be national, regional or local in nature.

During the exam, Dr. Klein will utilize specialized ophthalmic equipment to look for problems including: redness, corneal changes, retinal disease, early cataracts and other serious abnormalities.

“These animals work for a living and rely on their eyes just as much as we do,” she said. “Search and rescue dogs might have to climb ladders, or search for missing people in the dark. And then others might have to perform daily tasks like pushing buttons, taking off shoes or even fetching phones for handlers.”

“Early detection helps ensure that these working dogs can continue to work effectively,” she added.

Service animal(s) owners and handlers must register online at www.ACVOeyeexam.org before the event starts in May.

Once registered online, the owner/handler can call IndyVet at 782.4484 and use the registration number to schedule an appointment with IndyVet. Appointments will be scheduled on a first-come, first-served basis.

IndyVet is located at 5425 Victory Drive, just south and east of the I-465 & South Emerson Avenue interchange.

Understanding Your Stubborn Dog

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Few things are more frustrating than having a dog who “knows the commands” but for some reason, seems to refuse to perform them on cue. Dogs like this are the ones who have owners saying, “She knows how to sit, she just doesn’t always do it,” or, “We went to training classes and he knew everything then, but now he only does it when he wants to.” There are a lot of these dogs out there, and if you happen to share your home with one, just know that there are ways to overcome this.

Before doing anything else, make sure your dog has been to the vet recently for a full exam. Stubbornness could be a sign that, instead of refusing to do a command, perhaps your dog can’t hear the command anymore, or can no longer see well enough to distinguish your hand signal. Not doing a command could also also be a signal of that command causing your dog pain.

If your dog has been cleared by the vet, next on the list is figuring out why your dog won’t listen every time. It is important to understand your dog’s individual personality and motivations. My Basset Hound, Lou, had a problem with coming when called. Sometimes he did, sometimes he just looked at us like we were crazy, and other times he acted like he couldn’t hear us with his head turned away, freezing on the spot and seeming to hope that we didn’t see him.

Lou never really had a strong coming when called foundation. He wasn’t taught as a puppy, he had no set word used every time and wasn’t given motivation to follow through. I tried using all the baby step techniques – walking backwards with tasty treats in my hand, using a leash to ensure he couldn’t get too far away, and more. As it turned out, the only reason Lou was “stubborn” is because his motivation and way of understanding is different from many other dogs. Lou loves treats, but he loves to know what is going on even more. He froze because he didn’t know what was expected of him. He stared at us, waiting for more direction. The key to this stubborn dog was really to just coax him along, praising every single step until his tail wags, his tongue hangs out, and he is happily trotting towards me. As time goes on, he needs less and less direction.

My Great Dane/Coonhound Mix, Daisy, on the other hand, is an entirely different sort of stubborn dog. Daisy’s main motivation in life is to simply avoid punishment. She is a sensitive dog by way of touch, sound, and quick movement, but she is also a take charge and a “make me” sort of dog. Even when I knew Daisy was aware of what commands meant, she would quite simply refuse to do them, as though she did not see the point. Treats and praise meant nothing at all and performing the cue was not worth the tasty morsels of meat or cheese after she had done a few repetitions flawlessly.

Daisy needed constant challenges and a lot of patience. One of the golden rules to dog training is to never let your dog get away with not doing a command when asked. This is the number one golden rule when working with dogs like Daisy. I once found myself standing in front of her on a walk, getting ready to cross a street, asking for a Sit and refusing to move for a good seven or eight minutes before she finally sat down. It now takes only a few seconds for her to decide that sitting is worth it in order to continue on the walk.

These dogs need structure. They need routine and your expectations of them need to remain consistent. I expect Daisy to sit at every street corner before crossing. I haven’t once let her cross without doing so. I expect her to lay down and wait for her food at breakfast and dinner time and have not fed her without her doing so. These behaviors do become automatic in dogs – even ones like her – with enough time and patience.

The key to working with stubborn dogs is to take the time to figure out why they are so stubborn. Do they really, truly, understand the command and have you taken the time to teach it well? (Be honest here because this is the number one reason that dogs appear stubborn!) Is there a physical ailment that has so far been undetected? Is the motivation you’re using in line with what your dog needs (ie. Treats, praise, toys, etc.)? Have you ever let your dog get away without performing the command after you have asked for it? (If you have done this often, it may be time to start at the beginning and retrain your dog to a different word! It is easier to start from scratch than to teach your dog to pay attention to a word she has already decided has no meaning.)

Your stubborn dog just needs a lot of love, some detective work on your part, and a great deal of patience. She is not stupid, or particularly defiant, she is merely operating in a world that is foreign to her and doing the best she can with what she has learned so far. Remember to be diligent, forgiving, calm, and consistent and you’ll have an obedient dog in no time!

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

End Barking During Walks

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Hopefully, by now, your dog has officially stopped his pulling on the leash and you’ve managed to put an end to the frustrating Stop ‘N Sniff sessions. That leaves one more area to tackle… ending the barking during walks!

First and foremost, you’ll need to understand what motivates your dog to learn, as well as why your canine friend is barking in the first place.

Dogs bark during walks for all kinds of reasons, but the most common are: to show excitement at the potential of meeting a new friend, to warn you of someone’s possible approach, and to let the people or dogs know they are getting too close.

Excitement Barking

These dogs love people and/or dogs and feel that every new creature is a potential best friend! The good news is that they mean no harm. They show this by giving excited, high-pitched barks, having a loose, quick tail wag, pulling towards their new friends, and maybe even showing a play bow or two. Their body language is fluid and fast.

The bad news is that these dogs’ excitement levels can be misinterpreted by humans and canines alike. A nervous dog can perceive this exuberant behavior as a threat, and humans can associate a barking dog with aggression.

The first thing you need to do with a Excitement Barker is teach him to calm down! This means plenty of exercise and always having on-hand your dog’s favorite motivator (ie. Special toy, favorite treats). Start teaching your dog to Sit when greeting people inside your home and out, using praise and a motivator as a reward. From now on, no one can pet your dog unless he is sitting! This will help to decrease excitement levels during walks.

Once you have your dog in a good Sit (and the person or canine is a ways away from you), let them know that you’re training your dog and ask for help. Yes, it can be a little awkward at first, but it is the only way that your dog will learn how to nicely handle meeting people. Keep your dog in a Sit as his new friend approaches. If at any time your dog breaks Sit, have the person stop moving forward and ask again for a Sit. In no time, your dog will realize that this works way better than barking and pulling!

Warning of Approach

These dogs are alert dogs through and through. They aren’t necessarily scared or feeling danger from the oncoming person, but they want you to be aware of it. They’ll give a couple of barks and alternately look up to you to see if you see what they do. They may have their hair standing up, chest puffed out a little, and their eyes will be wide. These dogs need to know everything is alright.

Again, be sure to always have your dog’s favorite motivator on hand. When your dog first spots the person or canine, say “There’s a person!” (or “There’s a dog!) in a happy, carefree tone while looking at the person. This will assure your dog that you have seen what they see, and that it is no big deal. Give your dog a treat or his toy while he is quiet, and after you have said your phrase. You will be reinforcing quiet behavior around what he originally thought might turn into a threat. Keep rewarding your dog every time he looks at the person or dog and does not bark. He’ll start to see that you are indeed as watchful as he is!

Territorial Barking

This one is a little trickier. Some of these dogs are barking merely to say Stay Away, and some are barking to look for trouble. These dogs don’t stop barking at the people/canines. They maintain constant eye contact, rigid hair and body positioning, a high, straight tail, and a low, deep bark or growl. They may lunge towards the people and give off an “I mean business” vibe. This could be born out of fear, insecurity, lack of socialization, or in a minority of cases, true aggression.

Under no circumstances should you allow a person or canine to interact with your dog during a walk if he is showing these signs.

These barkers need to be shown that not everyone is a threat. The best way is to desensitize them to seeing people – showing them that nothing bad will happen if they keep calm. Since most of these dogs are acting out of fear or a lack of socialization, treat them as you would Scaredy-Dogs. Follow the instructions in the Scaredy-Dogs article and you’ll be well on your way.

It can sometimes be hard to tell your dog’s true intentions during barking episodes like this. If you feel that your dog may be showing true signs of aggression, has bitten someone in the past, or if you’d like a second pair of eyes watching the situation and helping out, please consider hiring a Certified Dog Trainer to help. Dogs in this category pose the biggest bite threat and need a lot of help learning how to remain calm and enjoy walks for the sake of walking.

Happy Walking!

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

How to End “Stop ‘N Sniff” Sessions During Walks

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Walking the dog has a lot of potential to be a relaxing, stress-free stroll, but oftentimes, that walk in the park gets interrupted by a dog who demands to stop every ten feet or so to sniff and explore in his own way.

This article is part two in a three article series about walking the dog. (See Part 1 about stopping pulling on the leash here.) Hopefully, by now, your dog is well on his way to not pulling during walks. That will go a long way in ending these stop ‘n sniff sessions! Or maybe your dog doesn’t stop to sniff, but rather to leave a scent marker to tell all his doggy friends (or enemies…) that he was there. We’ll tackle both of these problems here today.

My Basset Hound, Lou, used to be a classic Stop ‘N Sniffer. Not only did he care a lot about every scent he could find, but he also liked to leave his own scent behind. He is now a recovering Stop ‘N Sniffer (because, trust me, if you slack at any point in these dogs lives and allow them to sniff on their terms, you’ll have to start over with training!) and by practicing the following techniques, your dog can learn to enjoy walking without stopping too.

First and foremost, start teaching your curious pup a “Leave It”command. You can do this by placing a treat on the floor and covering it with your hand while you say “Leave It.” As soon as your dog looks up at you (after trying hard to dig, lick, and push your hand), say “Good” and give him a treat. Work up to having the treat uncovered and using your body or foot to block him after saying “Leave It.” Please keep in mind that your dog should never get rewarded with the treat on the floor! Leave It means “This is not yours and NEVER will be.” The treat should always come from the opposite hand.

Alright, now that your dog has a basic understanding of how to leave things alone, time to get out the leash. If you have a dog who likes to mark his territory, stop in your front yard for a minute or two to make sure he gets a potty break before the walk. This step, I admit, is more for the owner than for the dog. Knowing that your dog has had the opportunity to use the bathroom before leaving will make it mentally easier for you to prevent him from doing so during the walk!

Then, you’re off! Then instant your dog decides something really awesome is lurking in the bushes, or is dried to the side of a tree, tell him, “Leave It, Let’s Go.” You must use a firm voice and then follow through with your words, meaning don’t stop walking!

This doesn’t mean to just drag your dog along – there is a technique to it. When your dog stops, grab the leash close to his collar, keep your arm straight and next to your body and walk onwards. The instant your dog responds by following, loosen your grip and resume holding the leash your standard way. The goal here is to apply an unwanted feeling on his neck (pressure), then the second that he takes the first step and starts walking, the pressure goes away! This technique is for dogs using an Easy Walk Harness, a Martingale Collar, or a standard flat-buckle collar.

With dogs who are using choke or prong collars, use a treat to guide them away from their sniffing adventure after saying “Leave It, Let’s Go.” (Dogs using any kind of collar or harness can do this too!) In order for this to work, your treat must be really smelly – think hotdogs or chicken – and you must get close to your dog and literally stick the treat in front of his nose. Once you have his attention on the treat, move it back to the sidewalk and reward him while he is walking!

Since these dogs are generally motivated by environment interactions, it is necessary to allow them to stop and sniff sometimes. The key to this is doing it on your terms.

When you decide to take a break, or to reward your dog for an awesome first half of the walk, have your dog Sit facing you. Then give him a cue – it could be “Free Dog,” “Go See,” “Sniff” – anything you like! This will signal to your dog that he is free to enjoy the scents and his surroundings for a couple of minutes. Give him 1-2minutes to look around, then say “Let’s Go” and continue on. Best of both worlds.

Next week, we’ll take a look at how to help dogs who bark at their doggy and human friends.

Happy Walking!

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

Walking the Dog – Stress Free!

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Summertime is here! Time to enjoy the “Dog Days of Summer” with your canine pal, whether that means taking leisurely strolls in the cool morning hours, spending an afternoon hiking in the shade of the woods, or going for a run in the evening just before the sun goes down.

Sounds like fun, doesn’t it? It probably does to your dog, too, and I bet he just might show you that excitement with constant pulling, lengthy “Stop ‘n Sniff” sessions, or barking hello to his human and doggy friends.

If this daydream has started to seem a little less fun because you recognize some of these behavior problems in your dog, rest assured, there are solutions. We’ll cover all of these issues over the next few weeks, starting today with pulling. Be sure to check back next week for tips on ending “Stop ‘n Sniff” sessions, and the week after for barking during walks!

Pulling

The number one problem on a walk with a dog is pulling. Believe it or not, if you can retrain your dog to walk beside you instead of out in front, most other walk-time behavior problems will start to take care of themselves. While it may seem like an overwhelming challenge right now to teach your dog (who may already have years of pulling behind him!), there are many safe training tools that can help.

First and foremost – before we get any further – please, please, please stop using your retractable leashes! These are just begging for trouble when walking dogs.  The slight, constant pulling sensation on a dog’s neck actually teaches your dog to pull in order to go forward. Want to solve the problem by simply latching the leash to hold a certain length? True, it can be done, but your dog already has associations of pulling with that leash, not to mention the added degree of difficulty in holding a plastic handle in sweaty hands as opposed to a loop of fabric or leather that can be wrapped around your wrist for extra support. And, that retractable leashes are thinner than standard leashes, leading to a higher potential for breaking during use. But enough about retractable leashes – on to other training tools.

My personal favorite, and the one that is usually right for all the long-legged dogs out there (Dachshund and Basset Hound owners – I’m not talking to you just yet!), is the Easy Walk Harness. Yes, most harnesses actually encourage pulling, even some of the “anti-pull” ones on the market today. They do this because hooking a leash to a dog’s back increases the strength of your dog by allowing them to use more of their body to pull forward. Feeling even a slight pressure of pulling causes an instinctual “keep pulling” response in dogs, unless they are trained differently. This is why dogs do so well with things like pulling sleds and wagons!

The Easy Walk Harness is different. The leash actually attaches on the dog’s chest, which means when Scruffy goes to pull, he finds himself turning sideways, often times away from what he is trying to get to, instead of still moving forward. These harnesses also fit a bit more snug than a standard collar, so be sure to allow only for one finger’s width to fit between the harness and your dog instead of two. You can find these at standard pet stores for around $20-$25. (Not in a hurry? Check online retailers for the best deals.) They come in a variety of color choices and are 100% returnable if you or your dog doesn’t like them.

There are a couple of downsides to the Easy Walk Harness. Some dogs can develop chaffing from where the harness hits around their legs. This can be warded off by gradually increasing the amount of time your dog spends in his harness over a couple of weeks, starting with only 5-10 minutes. Also, some dogs can wiggle their way out of the harness during jumping fits, but this only occurs with improperly fitting harnesses, and an owner who pulls the leash down towards the ground when attempting to control these fits. Size it right and hold the leash up and your dog won’t get out. As with any leash walking training tool, your dog will still be able to pull ever so slightly, so be sure to reinforce the right position and lack of pulling with tasty treats for the first few weeks.

On to the short-legged dogs – While the Easy Walk Harness may not be the right choice for your dog, there is another wonderful tool that will help you regain control of your puller! A Martingale collar might be the right choice for you if you find that your dog constantly slips out of his collar, or if you’re looking for a safe alternative to a standard chain-link choke collar. Martingale collars are designed to give the same tightening sensation around your dog’s neck to make pulling uncomfortable, but has a safety stop in it that doesn’t let it constrict to the point of hurting your dog. Typically, most Martingale collars constrict about 2 inches – just enough for your dog to get the point, but not enough to risk damage to his throat. These can be found pretty much anywhere and run the gamut in prices to fit all budgets. Any color, pattern, design and size is available on the world wide web!

The Martingale is not simply a quick fix. Some dogs don’t much mind the slight constricting, so you will need to be sure to employ plenty of positive reinforcement during walks for a few weeks when your dog shows non-pulling behaviors.

Another training method that works well for the Easy Walk Harness and the Martingale collar is simple. Your dog pulls… You stop. Every. Single. Time. There can be no more, “But it is raining and he is just pulling to his favorite spot. If we stop we’ll get soaked,” or, “Is he pulling too much? Should I stop?” If you feel any kind of pulling, you must stop immediately. It’ll be a little stop and go for awhile, but thankfully, most dogs catch on to this pretty fast (especially if you wait for them to look back at you before you keep moving) and once they learn it, your walks will be pull-free.

Here’s to walking the dog (and not the other way around)!

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

Managing a Pack of Household Dogs

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Until I married a wonderful man a month and a half ago, my household consisted of just my dog, Karma (and the occasional foster dog), and me. Now, I find myself managing a pack of dogs. Karma now has a sister (4 year old Great Dane/Coonhound mix named Daisy) and a brother (5 year old Basset Hound named Lou) who are constantly in her space, sharing her toys, her person, and eating right by her side.

If you’re planning to add a new dog to your household, or if you already have multiple dogs who are showing signs of behavior problems towards each other, read on!

Anytime a household goes from 1 dog to multiple dogs, expect a bit of chaos! Even the most loving, sociable dogs can get irked with having to constantly share their space with another canine. You may witness power struggles for Top Dog spot, an unwillingness to share food, toys, or affection, or a melding of behaviors (ie. One is a barker and one never has been… until now).

Be aware that your actions will define the status and stability of the pack. There are many things you can do to ensure a smooth process in integrating your dogs into one pack.

First, make sure at least one of the dogs is up to par on basic obedience and the rules of the house. If you want all the dogs to wait at the door, make sure at least one already can! Dogs will model each others behavior – especially if there is a reward for doing so. One of the easiest ways to teach a dog to Sit, for instance, is to have him watch another dog be rewarded for doing so.

Seeing power struggles? These often show themselves by toy stealing/guarding, growling as one dog walks by another, pushing to get out the door first or to greet you first, food guarding, or even a simple movement of one putting her head over the other’s neck in a dominant stance. Rest assured, you can help.

If there are power struggles going on in your house, evaluate your dogs objectively. Which one is the most stable and predictable? Which one does the best with people, outside noises, and general obedience commands? Which one is the natural leader – meaning who wins the most when these things take place? Make sure you identify the most stable dog before continuing with the following advice!

In my household, Top Dog spot goes to Daisy. Yes, Karma is better trained, but she is a fearful-reactive dog who can’t be trusted to tell the other dogs how to react in certain situations. Lou is the most laid-back and sociable, but he has no interest in winning against the other dogs – he’s more of the peace-keeper of the group – always willing to placate and give in. Daisy is the most powerful, most unwilling to back down (yet does not use any more force than is necessary), and is a natural canine leader. Now, Karma believed she was most capable to be leader and power struggles between the girls ensued. Here’s how to step in.

Sometimes, dogs can’t figure it out for themselves. Sometimes, if their power plays are allowed to continue, true dog fighting arises complete with blood and hospital visits. I have many clients who can attest to this.

Take your Top Dog and start doing the following in order to show the rest of your pack who you have chosen as the one in charge. These should help alleviate the pack insecurities of never knowing who is on top:

  • Feed her first. Before any of the other dogs, Top Dog gets her food first.
  • Let her go out the door first. Top Dog leads the way.
  • When giving treats, give them to Top Dog first.
  • Greet Top Dog first.
  • During walks, shorten the other dogs’ leashes and allow Top Dog to walk slightly ahead of the others.

Keep in mind that being Top Dog could go to your dog’s head. If she is not feeling solid in her position, her dominant behaviors could get worse before they get better. Just remember – with great power, comes great responsibility. Top Dog status does NOT mean she gets to get away with any and everything. You must have a great relationship full of respect (on both ends) and obedience with your Top Dog.

She must be a disciplined, well trained and obedient-to-humans dog in order to be a respectable, fair leader. It is important, when she acts up, to correctly put her back in her place in front of the other dogs (without the use of physical force!). Ultimately, YOU still run the pack and the other dogs (and Top Dog) need to see that every day

If you can successfully establish who rules the roost in your absence, all of your dogs will feel more at ease. Not every dog wants to be Top Dog, but the vast majority will vie for it in the absence of a clearly established leader because it is a position that must exist. Dogs just want to know where they fit in and will be content with any position, as long as it is made clear where their order in the pack falls.

For help in properly controlling your Top Dog, you may find the Toy Guarding and the Are These Dogs Playing or Fighting articles helpful.

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

Stray Dogs – Make Sure Yours Never Is One

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While I was washing the dishes earlier today, I looked out the window and thought, “Oh, the dogs are out.” Then, I realized the dog I was watching relieve himself in the backyard was not one of mine.

Long story short, the stray (Spot – changed to protect the frightened!) is terrified of strangers, and even though I went armed with hotdog pieces, he decided fleeing was a better alternative than taking food from a stranger. Not a bad idea if you’re a child, but a terrible idea for a stray dog.

Spot ran away from me, but luckily his owners had placed an ad on Craigslist. I called and, after helping in the search,  they’re still looking for him as I type this. Hopefully, Spot will sleep in his own home tonight.

Turns out, he was a recently adopted rescue dog and had escaped yesterday. The ad even states that he is shy with strangers.

So, how can you stop your dog from winding up like this? Dogs running away is a fact of life – luckily, there are a few things you can do to decrease the chances that your dog will run, and that he will accept help if he does.

Make sure your dog knows the lay of the land! Most dogs escape from their own homes, and those that go on very few walks can’t always find their way home after chasing the neighborhood cat for a mile or so.  Take your dog everywhere, in every direction, around your neighborhood, and those surrounding it. In fact, have someone drop you off a ways away (especially a park, or wooded area that may be enticing to your dog) and walk home together. One time around the block just won’t cut it.

Next, teach your dog the strongest Recall command possible. Make coming to you as much fun as it can possibly be when you say “Spot, Come!” We’re talking treats, praise, toys, anything that gets your dog excited!

When teaching a Recall, remember to use it in positive manners – meaning, do NOT call your dog to you in order to punish him, to bring him inside (thus ending his fun), or to take something away from him that he values. And, if you must call him to bring him inside or to take something from him, practice the Come command 10-15 more times immediately where only positive things happen.

Using a long line (15-20ft. leash) outdoors and in unfamiliar environments will help you gain control over your dog in the event that he should become distracted while learning. Use it to gently remind him to go in your direction, then release him back to his fun after he comes.

If he does not come to you, try running away from your dog. That’s right – away from him. This brings out the dog’s natural chase/prey/play instincts and gives him a good reason to follow!

The next most important thing to teach your dog is that strangers are not enemies, or people to be feared. Strangers may well be your dog’s only hope at ever becoming reunited with you in the event that he gets away.

Socialize your dog to every kind of person you can think of! Have a fearful dog? Approach strangers (start with friends), and ask them to give a few treats to your dog without making eye contact, or speaking directly to him. Once your dog gets used to the idea that people on the street are treat dispensers, have them slowly and gently pet your dog on the chest, or under the chin (still not making eye contact), and work up from there. Practice on the sidewalks and in neighbors yards – anywhere your dog may be if he gets lost.

Have a dog who barks at people? Use treats during walks to distract your dog from looking at the people. Reward your dog any time he looks at someone without barking. Once you can start passing people on the opposite side of the street barkfree, work up to passing on the same sidewalk. Then, start having your dog Sit as people walk by, and you say hello to them. Keep working on it until you can have strangers toss your dog treats.

Any little bit helps. Anything you can do to teach your dog about his surroundings, to teach him to come back when he is called, and to introduce him to all the neighbors will go a long way in leading to a safe return.

(Also – make sure your dog is wearing identification tags. Tags can be broken, so make sure he is microchipped as well. Check the Humane Society of Indianapolis or F.A.C.E. Clinic for cheap prices on microchipping.)

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

Training to Your Dog’s Personality

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Anyone who has ever shared a friendship with a dog will tell you – no two are alike! They all have their own personalities, quirks, likes and dislikes, and, believe it or not, their own learning styles. Knowing which style is best suited to your dog will go a long way when teaching basic obedience commands and in dealing with behavior problems.

The first piece of the puzzle you’ll want to discover is what motivates your dog. The most common are food, praise/human interaction, toys, and environment interactions.

Imagine you and your dog in this scenario – You and your canine pal are taking a leisurely stroll, with a pocket full of yummy treats. Up ahead, there is another person walking towards you. To the right of you, a tennis ball lays on the ground, next to a fire hydrant that surely the neighborhood dogs have used to mark their territory!

What would your dog do? Would she ignore everything else and keep her nose glued to your pocket in hopes of a treat? Would she pull towards the person, tail wagging, asking to be pet? Maybe she would pick up the tennis ball and entice you to play fetch, or perhaps she would choose to ignore everything else and stop to sniff the fire hydrant.

Whatever your answer would be is what truly motivates your dog, and is one of the strongest sides to her personality.

Here’s how you can incorporate that into your training:

If your dog would choose treats – You’re in luck! Most basic obedience classes, dog training books, and articles rely on food motivation to accomplish training. Make sure to keep a lot of treats with you at all times to encourage appropriate behavior from your dog. Use treats to guide your dog into a Sit or Down and then give them their reward as soon as their body is in the right position. Just be sure to decrease the amount of food you give your dog  at meal time when doing a lot training to avoid weight gain – and be sure to gradually wean your dog off treats once she is reliably performing her commands. Also, teach a strong Leave It command. These dogs can sometimes be found scavenging for last night’s dinner in the garbage can!

If your dog would choose greeting the oncoming person – You have a praise motivated dog! The good thing about praise motivated dogs is that you giving them a pat on the head and saying “Good Girl,” means a lot more than treats, so worrying about weight gain won’t be necessary with these pups. The key to working with praise dogs is to ignore them completely when they are doing an incorrect behavior (ie. Whining for attention, begging at the dinner table). Since they rely so heavily on praise and attention, the best way to teach them to stop negative behaviors is to not give any attention. Even saying “No,” to a dog is a form of attention. When they’re doing something great, be sure to give lots of hugs and pets!

If your dog would choose the tennis ball – You have a toy motivated dog! These dogs are generally high energy and like to be entertained. Want success with a toy dog? Become entertaining! These dogs generally love to see their owner acting silly and joining in on the fun of being alive. As a reward for performing a command, or showing great behavior, stop to play with your dog for a moment – even better if you have her favorite toy. Be sure to teach these dogs a strong Give or Drop It command, as they tend to figure out pretty fast that grabbing your favorite pair of shoes means a game of chase! Also, if you need to call your dog back to you and she won’t come, start acting silly! They want to be part of the fun, so whatever looks the most entertaining, that’s where they’ll go – jump around, wave your arms, smile and laugh, sing a silly song and run away from your dog. She’ll come right to you.

If your dog would choose the fire hydrant – You have an environment interactions motivated dog! These dogs can’t get enough of checking out their surroundings and their noses lead them through life. Train your dog to play games using scent, such as hiding a treat somewhere in the house for them to find. Teaching basic obedience? Get a few clean rags and choose different places outdoors to rub them in (ie. The flower bed, the neighbor’s grass, on a friend’s dog, in pond water). As a reward for performing a command, let them sniff one of the rags for a few seconds. Trust me – that’s all they want! Be sure to teach these dogs a strong Leave It command, or your walks will become a series of stopping every 10 feet so she can sniff!

Knowing what motivates your dog is the key to efficient, easy, and successful training. Don’t have a food motivated dog? No problem – just get creative! You know your dog best. Make sure she has a good time and the right rewards, and training will be a walk in the park.

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

Dog and Puppy Socialization

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When it comes to dogs and puppies, basic obedience commands seem to be on the top of many peoples’ lists as far as what is needed to ensure that your new canine companion will be a well-adjusted member of the family. Did you know that there is something that ranks even higher and has even more of an impact on your puppy/dog’s ability to function within your household?

Without proper socialization, your dog runs the risk of becoming a Scaredy-Dog, an aggressive dog, a fear biter, territorial, possessive, and/or reactive. Once this point is reached, all the basic obedience commands in the world won’t take care of the problem. You’ll find yourself dealing with a dog who requires the help of a professional to overcome the barking, biting, growling, etc.

The good news is that – whether you’ve just added a brand new, wet under the ears puppy, or an adult dog who was desperately in need of a good home – there are many steps you can take to ensure that proper socialization happens!

During socialization, the goal is to introduce your dog/puppy to every single sight, sound, smell, object, dog, cat, and person that will be a regular part of your day-to-day life, in a positive manner.  And I mean, everything!

People

Create a positive experience by always having quality treats on hand (the softer and smellier, the better!). As soon as the new person enters the picture, start talking excitedly to your dog. “Look! It is Jimmy! He’s here to play with us,” and give your dog a few treats. Next, lead your dog over to “Jimmy” and be sure to show your dog just how welcome “Jimmy” is – shake hands, hug, smile, and have Jimmy give some of the treats to your dog.

Objects

Be sure to include objects in this training as well. My adopted dog, Karma, acted as though she had never before seen a parked, turned off, motorcycle during one of the first walks we took together. She became afraid, tail between her legs, barking, just at the sight of it. You never know what it will be that your dog thinks doesn’t belong in her world! In this instance, if your dog has already decided the motorcycle (object) is scary and doesn’t belong, the routine would be a little different. Without speaking, redirect your dog’s attention to the treats at a distance she can be calm. Gradually lure her with the promise of more treats, towards the object. If she becomes afraid, back up a few steps and try again. Do not force her to go closer than she is comfortable with! It may take a few days, but soon enough, she’ll find herself close to the object and, surprise, nothing bad happens to her! In fact, she gets treats!

Sounds

Sounds are important. A dog’s hearing is far superior to ours and they lack the cognitive ability to say “Oh, the squeaking sound I hear that seems to be coming from above me is just Sally walking on the floorboards.” All they know is that there is a strange sound occurring inside their home, seeming to come from above them, with no reason that they can see. A knock on the door doesn’t mean, “Jimmy is here to play with me!” It does, however, mean, “A loud sound just happened from outside – someone is trying to get into my house – sound the alarms!”

Stage any sound that your dog seems to be unsure about. For instance, if a knock on the door sends your dog into a territorial fit, a tail-between-the-legs fear, or anywhere in between, have someone knock on your door (and do not answer!) for training purposes, or knock on the door yourself from inside. Teach your dog that knocking isn’t scary, or cause for alarm. Knocking means that she should lay down on a mat, far enough away from the door that she isn’t in harms way, but close enough that she can see. Every time a knocking sound occurs, lure her over to her mat and have her lay down. Give her a yummy treat and make your way to the door. If she gets up, return to her and have her go back to a Down. Eventually she will see that being on her mat gets the door open. The sooner she goes there, the sooner she can see what the noise was all about!

Keep in mind that there are a lot of things to get your puppy or dog used to. Fly swatters, fireplaces, dropping books, seeing people out the window, the mailman, the neighbor’s dog, children playing outside, the hairdryer, television… Truly, the list is endless. Turn it into a game to enjoy! Coming up with new things for your dog to experience can be a lot of fun for everyone. This is a great job for children, also, as they are often incredibly creative and thrilled to be helping!

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.

Are These Dogs Playing or Fighting?

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Dogs, like people, are social creatures and most enjoy interacting with other dogs through play.  This is an excellent release of energy, a great form of exercise, and a good psychological boost to dogs – unless, of course, playing becomes fighting.

Playing dogs can appear vicious through barking, showing their teeth, wrestling, and even occasionally growling. It isn’t hard to see why telling the difference between playing and fighting can sometimes be difficult!

Dogs who are having a good time playing with their canine companion will show the following signs:

  • Loose, fast tail wags
  • Wide, excited eyes, glances at, and away from, the other dog
  • Relaxed mouth, slightly open (teeth covered)
  • Play Bows (front end on the ground, back end in the air)
  • Fluidity to their movements, almost like dancing

Fighting dogs will act in the following manner:

  • Straight tail, slow stiff tail wags
  • Squinted, intense eyes/stare
  • Exposed teeth, snarl, possible quick bites
  • Rigid posture, hair on back raised
  • Calculated, harsh movements with intent to threaten or harm

There are some characteristics that Playing and Fighting dogs may show. They must be taken into account with the rest of the dog’s body language to determine the dog’s intentions.

Both Playing and Fighting dogs may show:

  • Quick movements
  • Wagging tails (Playing – Loose, fast. Fighting – Straight, stiff.)
  • Biting (Playing – soft bites, no intense reaction from playmate. Fighting – harmful bites, elicit intense response from other dog.)
  • Wrestling behavior

One surefire way to determine whether dogs are playing or fighting is to separate the dogs by moving the aggressor (the one playing/fighting the hardest, usually this is the dog who is on top during wrestling behavior) away.  If the other dog happily runs right back to the dog, rest assured, they were playing! If the other dog instead runs away, growls, raises his or her hackles (back hair), or continues to focus intensely with squinted eyes, then you just broke up a dogfight.

Most dogs will work out their differences with a couple of hard, intense stares, and the occasional growls/snaps. In fact, it is usually best to let dogs work things out amongst themselves.

However, if your dog has a history of getting in fights, or if you or your dog are unfamiliar with the other dog, break up these potential fights as early as possible!

In the event of a dog fight, the best way to intervene is to determine who the aggressor is and wrap your arms around the dog’s belly – just in front of the dog’s back legs – and lift the back legs off the ground. This throws the dog off balance and will cause him or her to look back at you to see what is going on. As soon as he or she looks at you, grab the collar and lead the dog away. Keep the dog as far away from you as possible during this to prevent a “transference of aggression” where the dog may potentially use excess energy to bite you.

Keep these tips in mind next time your dog begins a canine interaction and remember the golden rule – if you aren’t sure whether the dogs are playing or fighting, break it up.

If you have any questions you would like to ask a Certified Dog Trainer, you can submit them right here at Naptown Buzz. Elizabeth Wilhelm, Certified Dog Trainer, will tackle the submitted questions, and give practical advice to solve common dog behavior issues. For more information about Elizabeth, you may visit her website at www.TrainingKarma.com.